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Olivia Garden convex hair dresser shears

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kwakster

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My nephews girlfriend is a hairdresser, and she asked me if i would try to sharpen her oldest pair of shears.
Years ago she had gotten it as a gift from her teacher, all this time had never been sharpened, and as a result it was so blunt that she didn't use it anymore.
Through Google i found that for 120 US dollars these shears seem to have a good price to quality ratio, so i thought that an attempt at sharpening might be worth it.

The edges were really quite bad, and as i had never done convex shears before i first had to think up a sharpening/polishing protocol that might work.
In the end i settled on 1000 grit SiC paper used with WD40 oil on glass, 15 micron diamond paste on the back of a narrow strip of SiC paper on glass, followed by 6 micron and 1 micron used the same way.
The hone line was repolished using only 1.0 micron diamond paste.

Just reassembled the shears again and the edges seem to work as they should, effortlessly cutting hair all the way to the point, but the real proof of the pudding is of course what the owner will think of it.
Will report back if i know more...




 
Great work for a very good tool which should have been treated with more attention. Good that you saved this excellent tool!
 
My sister is a hairdresser and she explained to me how big the gap is between a quite sharp and an perfectly sharp scissors can be.
Working a full day with such a perfect tool makes the difference. An artist shouldn't think about the performance of his tools. The tool should just follow the artist commands.
I look forward to hearing the enduser comments.

I did not completely understand how you worked on those convex sides. Forgive me, it might be just my lack of language proficiency.
 
You guys can write in much better English than i can write in German, aber Ich werde es mal auf Deutsch versuchen, :)

Die halb-convex geschliffene Scherenseiten habe Ich einfach erneut angeschliffen auf wasserfestes Silizium Karbid schleifpapier Kornung 1000 mit WD40 Öl als schmiermittel/SiC kornungschutz, geklemmt auf eine Glasplatte, so auf dieselbe Weise wie Ich das auch tue mit manche völlig convexe Messerklingen.
Das Unterschied war nur das Ich nicht nur am Ende, aber nach jeder Schleifvorgang (so nach Kornung 1000 Silizium Karbid, nach 15 micron Diamant, nach 6 micron Diamant, und nach 1.0 micron Diamant) ein Paar mal die "hone line" (die platt liegende hinterseite des Scherenblattes) über 1.0 micron Diamantpaste gezogen habe.
Das Ziel dabei war ein gleichzeitiges erschwächen von dem "burr" (nur am Ende verschwindet diese natürlich ganz) und jedes mal ein bisschen weiter polieren des "hone line".

Ich hoffe das erklärt was Ich getan hab etwas besser, aber wenn nicht einfach fragen.
Es ist schon mehr als 40 Jahre her das Ich ein bisschen von die schöne Deutsche Sprache in die Schule gelernt habe.

Und Ich verstehe was Du schreibst: nur die Friseurin kann beurteilen ob Ich es gut genug gemacht hab oder nicht, und Ich werde Ihr Urteil hier sicher mitteilen.
 
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Thank you very much for your additional information. I continue in English because I do not want to disturb the flow of information.
I'm sure that you will receive a great feedback.
Certainly, a surgeon does not expect the need to discuss the level of sharpness of his/her scalpel.
A hairdresser much more depends on the attitude of a "Scissors-Sharpener".
My sister says: If cutting hairs would be easy, Samurais would'nt have trained halve of their live in cutting hairs before they even started in attempting cutting more "fleshy" targets.
I appreciate very much that you took her scissors the way it deserves - serious interest.
 
i have a bunch of surgeon scalpel blades made in da gemani, polished to the teeth, sealed quality.
interestingly they're not as sharp as a doublesided Wilkinson razor blade from Kaufland lol.
but they are rather robust, doht break\crack easily.

great work with the sharpening of the convex scissors!
 
@BertDasBrot :

WD40 stands for "water displacement, attempt number 40", and it's a mixture of a very thin oil with a solvent.
I have found that when used on wet & dry SiC paper it does several things (in no particular order):

- It protects the SiC grains from premature wear, so they stay sharper & cut better for longer when compared to water (let alone dry)
- It keeps the swarf in suspension much better than water, from which follows the next point:
- It keeps the surface of the SiC wet & dry paper from clogging much better & longer than water (something that becomes even more important with SiC paper in finer grits, as these tend to clog much faster)
- It prohibites flash rust, something very useful when regrinding various carbon steel types.

Also: SIC wet & dry paper is a completely different animal when compared to a solid SiC stone.
SiC grit is friable, so while the surface of a SiC stone wears away in use to make room for new & fresh grit, on wet & dry paper there is only one layer of grit, which just gets finer & finer with use.
I often make use of this effect by doing most of the steel removal when the SiC paper is still new & fresh, and only apexing when the grit gets finer.
This is of course dependant on what type of edge i'm after, coarser or finer.

You can also play with different substrates under the SiC wet & dry paper, like glass, rubber, plastic, or even layers of paper to get a coarser or a finer outcome.
See for instance this thread:
Sharpening on wet & dry SiC paper (https://messerforum.net/threads/sharpening-on-wet-dry-sic-paper.140735/#post-1086530)
 
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Got word from the owner, and she said that the shears are very sharp and they perform very well.
So far so good, now we wait and see how long these new edges will last in her use.
 
Last week the owner of the scissors (17-years old) dropped by my house with my nephew for a cup of tea, and informed me that she is still using them every working day.
According to her they're still very sharp and perfectly usable.

This seems to imply that my sharpening/polishing method is working, both for initial keenness and edge longevity.
Next i need to improve a bit in the speed department, while trying to maintain edge quality.
 
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